Thursday, July 25, 2013

BULLDUST DIARY ENTERS CATFISH COUNTRY - Peter Burleigh's safari reaches Karumba .

 
 Tonight there is a free BBQ dinner at  the  van  park. Bring a plate  and your grog and they’ll feed  fish to you. And it’s true. Each of us gets a meal of fresh fish, gratis. They run a weekly fishing competition in this park and we figure the unwanted fish goes into the freezer for Saturday night. At the boat  ramp, 7.04am , we are  met  by  Elizabeth B  herself who says: “You’re in trouble, you’re late.”
 
Four minutes is late? Yes it is. We are  abused by Cap’n Bob, skipper and  husband of Elizabeth B, for being grossly unpunctual. This is not a good start. Including us there are six people fishing. While we motor about 4km offshore, the skipper gives us the benefit of his experience: “Don’t hold your rod like that. Don’t dip its tip into the water. Don’t reel it in too far. Don’t let the fish get around the propeller. Don’t hold it by the tip. If I ask for your hook, don’t hand it to me like that or I won’t take it, etc etc.”

Despite all this intimidation we get into the Blue-nose Salmon, which we first ate at the BBQ last night. Whack! They strike and take off like silver bullets. Cap’n Bob has the drags on the reels screwed up tight – he expects us to simply winch them up to the boat to be netted, brutally overpowered. Nevertheless these fish are fighters, leaping out of the water, running under the boat, crossing over other peoples’ lines and taking off  for the horizon. Your heart beats  fast!
Unlucky people (today it  is  Boonie) catch  the despised catfish. Cap’n Bob grimaces. “Don’t touch a catfish unless you want to experience pain you can’t describe.”The slightly luckier ones ( Boonie and  Harry) catch  Steelhead Salmon. “Bait,” says Cap’n Bob , these fish look wonderfully sleek and silver. “They’re no good to eat?” we ask.“Yeah, they’re all right,” says Cap’n Bob, checking whether a mutiny is fomenting, “but we use ‘em for bait.”
 
The water is only 2 metres deep way out here and we are fishing about 200 metres from the dredged ore-ship channel. The water is a dusty green colour, full of nutrients flowing down  the creeks  and channels.  It’s crowded with fish. By 11am  the boat has caught about 30 Bluenose. I caught four. The other people caught all the rest. We are not very happy. Clearly it’s a  conspiracy – they have light-coloured rods and green-filament line ; we have black rods and blue filament. That must be it.
 
And bugs,” warns Cap’n Bob. “Don’t get cut or scratched at this time of year. The water’s full of nasty bacteria. You’ll get blood poisoning quick as a wink.” I wonder if  Bermuda ( a member of the party who early in the trip  had accidents  and suffered  what looked like a bite on his leg )  could have been poisoned by a land-based catfish  , but my diagnosis is distracted by a striking Salmon. I have hooked the biggest fish of the day, close to 800mm long. Everyone sees it just at the instant it throws the hook and escapes, so they can’t deny its existence, but as it swims away it increases in size in my imagination and shrinks to a tiddler in everyone else’s.

The next morning we are on time. The Elizabeth B, showing its scars, is illuminated by a light blue sky while gulls and terns squawk and wheel overhead before diving onto baitfish. Big pelicans keep their distance; fish are jumping everywhere. The weather is perfect. The three of us couldn’t eat even one of the two fish we took back and filleted yesterday, it was too big. Today we’ll keep only one fish and release any others. Cap’n Bob, who is actually smiling today because we’re not strangers, says he’ll keep some fish to give to the ‘Mister Sister’, the male  nurse  at  the  Karumba Health Clinic.
The Salmon seem bigger today. We catch around 20 between us, and have a lot more fun as we secretly ease off  the  reel drags and  have a genuine fight  with  the fish. We quickly learn  how  to  hook  them   in  the mouth  so  they  don’t get damaged. It’s very  satisfying to  let  them  go. The  morning closes with a catch of about 25 salmon.  I beat  Boonie’s record  for the biggest  catfish.  NEXT :  Dirty ending  for  Marco Polo .