During the late l950s, British writer Jean Heal travelled about Australia intent on gathering material for a book about the nation and its people. It resulted in A Thousand And One Australians, published by Michael Joseph , 1959. A copy of the book surfaced recently during a visit to Darwin , which rated 10 pages in the book , and I spoke to longtime resident and friend , Betty Bowditch and family members .
By Peter Simon
Betty actually drove Heal about Darwin and introduced her to many interesting people . Written up were playboy diver Carl Atkinson who was negotiating to buy the wartime wrecks, former butcher boy Mick Paspalis with a 30,000 pound house , Mrs Mazlin who had prospected for uranium .
For helping the author , Betty was not mentioned by name , just described as the "softly pretty coloured wife" of the Northern Territory News editor , Jim Bowditch , a good newspaper man.
Good-hearted Betty gave a laugh when she pointed out her description in the book , and gave it to me to peruse in coming days, on the understanding that it was a boomerang. Of the Territory people mention in the book she is probably the only one alive today .
The author's abiding memory of Darwin was that although it was in cattle country, the beef was the toughest she ate . And despite the fact that she put out a do not disturb sign on her expensive hotel room , presumably the Hotel Darwin , she was woken up at 6.45 am with a cuppa . It would have been nice to have had water in the water carafe and the coathangers in the cupboard not be broken . For men on the run , Darwin was a place where they asked no questions .
Reporters mentioned in Darwin were Percy Burton and Peter Ross, the latter she described as having such charm he could become an international radio figure. He died recently after a long and distinguished career in television and radio .
Heal was photographed with bronzed Bondi lifesavers and compered a fashion parade in Melbourne attended by Mrs Bolte , the Premier's wife . Other places and points of interest:-
CANBERRA : In the Australian Capital Territory she noted the circular road system and was impressed by the many portraits by Australian artists on the walls of parliament house . Guided by the Liberal Member for Perth, Fred Chaney , she listened to debates in the Senate and House of Representatives , one issue raised being a call for the Northern Territory Member to have more voting rights. Funding for the Snowy River scheme also raised. Chaney was later made Administrator of the Northern Territory.
ADELAIDE : Described in England and other states as being " very old fashioned, quiet, proper. Adelaide is beautifully laid out , but then she's been a long time dead ." There the first person Heal spoke to was the great- granddaughter of cattleman James Chambers who in 1862 financed an expedition to the top of the Northern Territory . Somehow, the township which was established along the way should had been named Catherine , after his family , but became Katherine .
Adelaide, she wrote, was proudly conscious of the Northern Territory, selling bracelets made of NT stones and offering NT tours. The chairman of the The Advertiser, Sir Lloyd Dumas , proudly pointed out South Australia had been the first place in the world to give women the vote .
One of the Advertiser writers was cosmopolitan Sidney Downer, " with a sweet, smart wife with lovely legs-Marlene Dietrich -type legs ". It would be worth the journey to Adelaide just to see Margaret Downer again , a very attractive person . (Sidney subsequently wrote Patrol Indefinite about the Northern Territory mounted police .)
Another person who made a big impression on her was the dashing jazz musician with a record shop , former airman, ex-Australian speedway champion , with his own hydroplane and a house filled with one of the finest collections of contemporary Australian paintings in the world , Kym Bonython .
As she walked about the well laid out city, she noticed The Summer of the Seventeenth Doll was having a return season at the Theatre Royal ; Rundle Street was a cross between Singapore's Chinatown and something out of a Wild West movie.
Surprising were her observations about the young people of Adelaide :" The flashiest youth I had seen in Australia waggled its hips on Rundle Street. Every girl seemed to have stiffened petticoats , stiletto-heeled shoes, blonde hair , glittering costume jewellery, lashings of rouge. The boys were the nearest thing I had ever seen across the world to Teddy Boys. Gangs of youths roamed round the streets or loitered over the corners -more youths than I had seen anywhere else in Australia, youths of every colour speaking many languages , especially Italian ."
WESTERN AUSTRALIA: At the Highway Hotel in Perth the hospitality was superb-a bowl of fruit provided on the veranda balcony of her room, calamine lotion and cotton wool on the dressing table for mosquito bites on her arms .
She was taken to see the greatest philosophical figure in the West , Professor Walter Murdoch , 84, after whom the Murdoch University is named , uncle of Sir Keith Murdoch, Rupert's father, in a white linen jacket, who served sherry . There were many books spread about , good pictures , and more sherry . With a spry mind, he was amused by everything , irreverent about most things , immensely well informed. His daughter , Catherine King , prominent in radio , had taken her about.
The pearling town of Broome did not rate well : Nights in a tiny oven of a room too hot for pyjamas, a sheet pulled up for protection against sandflies. There were, however, handsome men , friendly women and great acts of kindness. Final assessment-pure beauty and excruciating ugliness.
QUEENSLAND:On the Gold Coast, the first person of note was an unnamed American evangelist-probably Billy Graham. She had bypassed him in Melbourne, and now he was having a rest at Lennon's super luxurious hotel, exhausted from the effort of saving Australians, and no wonder, she teased . It must surely be impossible to save Australians-they are not lost.
On to Townsville, she wrote that it was a town which felt like a potential city , the centre of a great developing area ... Sugar, minerals, timber , cattle . Majestic scenery;crazy pioneers-Townsville is the apex of all of these ...Townsville the only town in the world with orchids growing in the main street ...The mayor a bookseller, Angus Smith .
The Queens Hotel , said to have the largest frontage of any hotel in the world, overlooked the harbour ,where silver lead ingots were being loaded aboard a Swedish ship .
The annual swim to Magnetic Island, described as scrubby with palm trees and undergrowth , a faintly seedy dingy air so typical of the unromantic tropics, was taking place , girls in 16ft cages to protect them from sharks .
Readers were told that Townsville was an ideal place for children, the wife of an alderman saying her son went to a state school just in a shirt and shorts, no socks , no shoes . There was a free library , a record club, chess classes and coaching, a camera club, a puppet club , pen pals.
Her travels included Cairns and the Atherton Tableland , a trip to Green Island where the underwater observatory had been built by Lloyd Grigg and Vince Vlasoff.
Lobbing in the mining town of Mount Isa, she met Rupert Murdoch , described as a newspaper proprietor from Adelaide, with his London editor , a mining engineer and two stockbrokers , in an air conditioned guest house where mining executives entertained visitors.
In the conclusion to the book, back home in England, Heal was shocked by the newspapers which she wrote were full of sordid trivia and pettiness , with little hard news . She found herself missing the blanket of stars and the Southern Cross at night , the gum trees , empty beaches , passion fruit , the space .
Also missed was the complete lack of snobbishness everywhere in Australia and the no class system .There was much to learn from Australia with its world-mindedness , tolerance, and give it a go attitude.